Flat & Point changes, then changes again, to become Dorothy’s Bistro

While restaurants early in the pandemic pivoted to the point of whiplash, few went through as many changes as quickly as Flat & Point in Logan Square, run by the husband-and-wife team of Brian and Taylor Bruns.

“We had to change like 150 times,” Brian Bruns said. That included offering dinner kits, picnic kits, grill kits, breakfast sandwiches, holiday catering and wine to go. The most successful pivot for the Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient was getting into bread baking, which explains why you can find baked goods from the duo at the Green City Farmers Market, Lincoln Square Farmers Market and the Dill Pickle Co-Op.

[ 7 new Bib Gourmand restaurants added to Michelin Guide’s roster for Chicago ]

Now, they are making the biggest change yet. Flat & Point is no more; the Bruns have rechristened it Dorothy’s Bistro. The new name comes from Bruns’ Bavarian grandmother, Dorothy O’Leary, who inspired him to start cooking as a kid.

Bruns, an alum of Spiaggia and Tru, believes the new name better reflects what they cook, especially since Flat & Point was always a bit confusing for customers. “People would come in and ask for ribs all the time, because they thought it was only a barbecue restaurant,” Bruns said. “We wanted to be an Alpine-inspired smokehouse. The name didn’t serve us well.”

Along with the name change, the menu has been condensed to nine dishes anchored in the Alpine cuisine of mountain villages in swaths of France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia.

“There’s no fluff on the menu,” Bruns said. “It’s a simple menu that will change often.” Currently, you’ll find an Alpine salad of delicata squash and ricotta, chicken liver mousse with duck fat shortbread, and trout with tomato and preserved artichoke. The heartiest item is the charcoute garnie, a twist on the Alsatian classic charcoute garnie, featuring your choice of smoked knackwurst, ‘nduja porchetta or baby back ribs with sauerkraut and butterball potatoes.

You’ll still be able to score Bruns’ excellent lasagna, which customers can get with tomato sauce or offal Bolognese. Bruns is particularly happy with the latter option. “The offal Bolognese is one of my favorite things,” Bruns said. “It smells like this dish I loved as a kid.”

Eat. Watch. Do.

Weekly

What to eat. What to watch. What you need to live your best life … now.

The couple’s incredible freshly baked bread will be available, including sourdough and bagels. Their baking program is actually going so well that the two are looking for a space to open a dedicated bakery.

Dorothy’s Bistro is currently a counter service operation, where you order everything ahead of time before taking your seat. “As Taylor and I talked about things — with inflation, the cost of living increasing and the low turnout for food industry jobs — this made the most sense,” Bruns said. There’s also a selection of natural wines and local beers.

“We’re getting back to our roots,” Bruns said. “It’s the kind of cooking that’s closer to our hearts.”

Dorothy’s Bistro is open Thursday to Sunday, from 5 to 9 p.m.

3524 W. Fullerton Ave., 773-904-7152, dorothyschicago.com

nkindelsperger@chicagotribune.com

Big screen or home stream, takeout or dine-in, Tribune writers are here to steer you toward your next great experience. Sign up for your free weekly Eat. Watch. Do. newsletter here.