After opening Rooh to acclaim, chef Sujan Sarkar delves into Indian fine dining at Indienne

Whether in New York City, New Delhi, or here in Chicago, chef Sujan Sarkar looks to bring the spirit of India to every meal he prepares — plus a little something extra.

Take, for example, an egg curry at his new River North fine-dining restaurant, Indienne. A poached egg — swapped out for the traditional hard-boiled — nests in a buttery-orange sauce; uni, peas and crispy garlic embedded in the curry’s depths. The something extra comes in the form of a geometric crown, a polygonal wafer made from buckwheat, inviting customers to crack into the dish with a little whimsy.

“For more than eight years, I have been cooking my version of Indian food,” Sarkar said. “It’s the backbone of what I do.”

Chicagoans may already be familiar with Sarkar’s inventive take on the cuisine, which he brought to the city in 2019 with Rooh, a progressive Indian restaurant in the West Loop. But at Indienne (217 W. Huron St.), he wants to set the bar even higher. His six-course tasting menus ($90, with a vegetarian option and a $60 wine pairing available), meld French techniques with the deep flavors of Sarkar’s native country in eye-catching ways.

While the restaurant launched at the end of September, the recent addition of a seasonal a la carte menu offers caviar service, and dishes such as butter chicken and Xec Xec, a traditional Goan curry with octopus. Cocktail names trace Sarkar’s own culinary journey, from the Kolkata, made with Indian single-malt whisky imbued with fresh ginger and roasted mango; to the Chicago, which mingles toasted sesame-infused Japanese shochu with butternut squash purée and Garrett Popcorn caramel syrup.

Though Sarkar has taken his culinary skills across continents, “this is a great city to start something which has never been done before,” he said.

“When you open a fine-dining restaurant, you have to be 100% convinced that it will work,” Sarkar said. “I’m convinced this is the best place to open up a restaurant, right here, not in New York or San Francisco.”

Sarkar’s early work in prestigious kitchens of London, Delhi and Mumbai earned him major accolades, including the Times of India’s Chef of the Year award. From there, he opened Baar Baar in New York City and Rooh in San Francisco before setting his sights on Chicago.

The Chicago outpost of Rooh, from which Sarkar departed to open Indienne, opened in 2019 as the first Indian restaurant on Randolph Street in nearly a decade. Former Tribune critic Phil Vettel awarded Rooh three out of four stars, applauding Sarkar’s “masterful touch with nuanced sauces” and his “modernist mind.”

Despite having several locations offering progressive Indian dishes, Sarkar said Indienne stands out from his other restaurants because of the combination of nuanced flavors and elegant atmosphere.

The pastel pink banquettes and plush beige chairs at Indienne seat up to 85 guests in the main dining area and 14 guests in a private dining room. Both areas are different shades of green with brass accents.

Indienne is open Tuesdays through Thursdays from 5 to 10 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 11 p.m.

Sarkar said is certain the combination of service, ambience, and wide-ranging menu will turn first-time guests into regulars in no time.

“When they walk out, trust me, they will walk out with a big smile on their face,” Sarkar said.

217 W. Huron St., 312-291-9427, indiennechicago.com

tatturner@chicagotribune.com

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