America’s Test Kitchen: It’s time to rethink your marinade

While it is common to soak meat in a marinade before throwing it on the grill, we wanted to try a different approach. Because wet meat simply steams on the grill, we suggest marinating the meat after grilling it to achieve a charred crust.

Simply season your steak with salt, pepper and sugar before searing. Once it comes off the grill, poking holes in the steak lets the bold, savory marinade penetrate into the meat. And serving more sauce for dipping on the side adds extra flavor.

Grilled Hoisin-Scallion Marinated Skirt Steak

Serves 4 to 6

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

2 scallions, sliced thin

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons sugar

1 to 2 teaspoons chili-garlic sauce

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

2 (12-ounce) skirt steaks, cut crosswise into 4-inch pieces and trimmed

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1. Combine soy sauce, hoisin, scallions, 2 tablespoons sugar, the chili-garlic sauce, and ginger in a bowl. Slowly whisk in vegetable oil and sesame oil until incorporated and sugar has dissolved. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and sprinkle all over with remaining 2 teaspoons sugar and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper.

2. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vents fully. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent fully. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.

3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill steaks (uncovered, and directly over coals if using charcoal; covered if using gas) until well browned and meat registers 125 degrees, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to a 13-by 9-inch pan and poke all over with a fork. Pour some of the marinade over steaks, tent with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Transfer meat to a carving board and slice thinly against grain. Pour the rest of the marinade into a serving vessel. Serve, passing marinade at table.

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