Usually, the tortillas in Oaxaca are very thin, but memelas are a little thicker. Still on the thin side but with a little bit of bite, says Bricia Lopez, whose family owns Guelaguetza, one of the best Oaxacan restaurants in the country.
“Memelas are essentially a thicker tortilla that we pinch around” the edges, says Lopez, who layers them with aciento for fat and texture, black bean pureed with avocado leaves and then refried, Oaxaca cheese and a red salsa. Served warm, straight from the pan, they’re delicious breakfast food.
“The secret to a great memela is that when we flip it, we start pinching it,” Lopez says, “and then you prepare it right on the comal. All the fat and all the cheese and all the salsa have to come together as one.”
A tip from Lopez: A great substitute for aciento is duck fat. “I mean, it’s duck fat, and who doesn’t like that?”
