Chicago’s Smyth earns its third Michelin star

The 2023 Michelin Guide ceremony in New York City Tuesday night included Chicago announcements such as Smyth’s third Michelin star, a star for sustainability for Daisies and two new Michelin-starred restaurants.

Smyth in West Loop, which serves contemporary/creative cuisine, according to the guide, received its third star. The restaurant earned its first star shortly after opening in 2016 and had maintained two stars since in 2017.

Michelin stars are awarded annually based on five criteria: the quality of the ingredients; the mastery of cooking and culinary techniques; the harmony of flavors; the personality of the cuisine as expressed through the dishes; and consistency across the menu and between visits.

Michelin inspectors unanimously decided to award the latest star to the restaurant, chefs John Shields and Karen Urie Shields and the rest of the staff for their “peak creativity, precision and teamwork.”

“I’m humbled to even be here standing here,” John Shields said at the ceremony. “I feel like I don’t deserve it, and now I’m going to spend the rest of my life making sure that you guys believe in what we’re doing.”

Smyth joins Chicago’s only other three-starred restaurant, Alinea, which was awarded in the first edition of Michelin’s Chicago guide in 2011.

Atelier, the Lincoln Square restaurant serving up classic American cuisine, and Indienne, an Indian dining experience in River North, both received their first Michelin star this year. Chef Christian Hunter of Atelier was also one of the recipients of the Michelin Young Chef Award.

Michelin inspectors said the following about the two restaurants given first-time stars:

Atelier (Lincoln Square; American cuisine): The kitchen delivers a carefully calibrated tasting menu supported by nearby farms and packed with flavor and originality. Familiar dishes like marinated beets, pimento cheese and Caesar salad arrive remodeled and refined, astutely seasoned, and never a leaf or morsel out of place. Hope that the warm clam chowder with lamb bacon and chive oil is still available. It’s a total showstopper.

Indienne (River North; Indian cuisine): A la carte is available, but first timers should start with the tasting menu, where (chef Sujan) Sarkar delivers an original, modern vision of Indian cuisine. His food may look like pieces of art but taste like familiar favorites pulled from across his vibrant homeland. At times showcasing a hint of French sensibility, pani puris, chats and curries arrive deftly spiced and elegantly presented.

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Chicago restaurants that maintained their one-star rating are Boka, EL Ideas, Elske, Esmé, Galit, Kasama, Mako, Next, Omakase Yume, Porto, Schwa, Sepia, Temporis and Topolobampo. Chicago restaurants with two stars still are Ever, Moody Tongue and Oriole.

Chicago has 21 Michelin-starred restaurants as of Tuesday night that reflect nine different cuisines. The overall Michelin Chicago guide, which includes Bib Gourmand and recommended restaurants, includes 154 restaurants.

North Pond in Lincoln Park and Goosefoot in Lincoln Square lost their stars but remain on the guide’s recommended restaurants section. Meanwhile, Claudia, which earned a Michelin star last year, has closed.

Logan Square’s Midwestern pasta restaurant Daisies became the first in Chicago to receive a Michelin Green Star, which recognizes sustainable practices. Chef and owner Joe Frillman’s menu showcases fresh produce from his brother’s 30-acre farm, according to a news release, and Frillman’s focus is to not only source locally but also minimize its carbon footprint.

Josh Perlman of Giant earned one of Michelin’s Outstanding Service awards this year, while Monica Casillas-Rios of Elske won for exceptional cocktails and Alex Ring of Sepia won the Sommelier Award. Elske and Sepia also each have a Michelin star.

The Bib Gourmands were also announced earlier this month, with five Chicago restaurants meeting the mark of excellence defined by good food at good value: Boonie’s, Cellar Door Provisions, Pompette, Union and Yao Yao.

sahmad@chicagotribune.com