Corned beef sandwiches are back at Steingold’s, plus 25 more of the best in Chicagoland

Can you imagine St. Patrick’s Day in Chicago, a city that dyes its river emerald green, without corned beef sandwiches?

They’ve become something of a restaurant barometer since I started covering what happened to the big, old-school Jewish delis around Chicago in 2018.

The cross cultural connections could clearly be seen when I ranked the 17 best corned beef sandwiches in 2019.

From Irish American pubs, to new school delis, to Black-owned businesses, most remained open for takeout despite the pandemic declaration in 2020.

In 2022, we saw dramatic changes on the corned beef beat. Jeff & Jude’s, the ambitious Jewish deli in Ukrainian Village, transformed after two years into Do-Over Diner, which then closed after just two months. Rye Deli & Drink in Greektown passed through the purgatory state of temporarily closed to permanently so, after opening for barely a year.

This year three new sandwiches join the ranks, from Fritzi’s Delicatessen in Oak Park, Halal Food grocery store in Burbank, and Mabe’s Sandwich Shop in the Chatham neighborhood on the South Side of the city.

However, the nearly unimaginable happened when corned beef quietly went missing for nearly a year at Steingold’s in Wrigleyville.

“The cost of our corned beef was a bit out of control,” said Aaron Steingold, founder and operator of the modern Jewish deli, which opened in 2017. “Only recently has it come back to a point that we could feasibly sell it again.”

Food costs also contributed to the decline of the big old-school Jewish delis.

“Corned beef, traditionally ordered in a Jewish deli, is requested very lean,” Steingold said. “So that means a lot of trim and waste from the brisket itself.”

They now use a leaner part of the brisket yielding less waste, he said.

Why didn’t that affect pastrami?

“The big difference is that fat is more acceptable in pastrami,” said Steingold, who owns the business with his wife, Elizabeth Abowd. “For us, it’s a desired part of the pastrami that gives a lot of flavor. So we weren’t having to trim the pastrami much at all.”

But Chicago continues to be more of a corned beef town, especially at this time of the year.

“For St. Paddy’s Day this year, we’re just doing our corned beef on the Grandpa Joe and Uncle Rube sandwiches, and then we’re going to have green bagels as well,” said Steingold, who’s a quarter-Irish, a quarter-Greek and half-Jewish.

The Grandpa Joe, named for his great-grandfather Joe Steingold, is a classic corned beef (or pastrami) on rye with mustard.

The Uncle Rube is their outstanding Reuben sandwich.

“Since day one of opening, we’ve used Greg Wade’s seeded sourdough rye bread from Publican,” said Steingold about the James Beard award-winning baker at Publican Quality Bread. “And we sear the bread in beef tallow to give it a little extra beefiness.”

That sear toasts the bread to a golden crust, holding tender meat, nutty Swiss and effervescent sauerkraut.

You can also add kimchi to any sandwich, an option inspired by a sister-in-law.

“The very first sandwich that I came up with for the menu was the Sister-In-Law sandwich, which is pastrami, anchovy mustard, and dill kimchi,” Steingold said. “And that is named for my sister-in-law Gemma, who is Korean and a great home chef in her own right.”

Their new chef will further explore Abowd’s culture as a second-generation Lebanese American.

“Chef Cara Peterson has been with us for about four months,” Steingold said. “She’s worked at some of the best Israeli restaurants in the country.” Peterson was previously at Zahav in Philadelphia, and Shaya in New Orleans.

Meanwhile, with Steingold’s Irish and Jewish ancestry, did he have any corned beef memories to share?

“My father’s favorite sandwich is a corned beef tongue sandwich, cold on rye bread,” he said.

Corned beef tongue was a staple in Jewish delis of the past.

“That’s my earliest memory of corned beef,” Steingold said. “Seeing those big beef tongues in the deli case, being a little horrified, but then tasting it and remembering how delicious it was.”

With the price of brisket these days, maybe corned beef tongue will make a comeback.

$17 (Grandpa Joe), $18 (Uncle Rube). 3737 N. Southport Ave., 773-661-2469, steingoldsdeli.com

Joe Eddy Battee created a corned beef recipe for side hustle sandwiches at the corner store his father opened, with uncle and namesake Aaron Pollard, in 1984 on the South Side of Chicago. They made the Black-owned business a destination. The extended family now has three locations that offer generous helpings of the luscious meat. To maximize the delicious mess, get fries tossed in A.P. sauce — the deli’s take on mild sauce.

$13.50. 1759 E. 75th St., 773-288-4931; 10758 S. Michigan Ave., 773-821-8480; 15033 Dixie Highway, Harvey, 708-596-2270; apdeli.com

The suburban strip mall storefront doesn’t look promising. But once inside, you will be transported to a neighborhood shop with sandwiches, potato pancakes and delicacies by the pound. Family patriarch Harris Davis was born and raised in Brooklyn, and inspired his son William to go into the Jewish deli business with the whole family.

$10.99. 200 Dixie Highway, Chicago Heights; 708-754-6400; bergsteinsny.com

This Irish public house in the Avondale neighborhood makes a lovely classic corned beef, and a beautiful Reuben too. Co-owners and spouses Brendan and Siobhan McKinney opened in 1999, and they’re now famous for their glorious Sunday brunch buffet. When weather permits, you can picnic in the backyard, and imagine you’re far away on the Emerald Isle.

$16. 3471 N. Elston Ave., 773-583-3066, chiefoneillspub.com

Brad Rubin opened the Jewish-style deli-meets-theatrical American diner in 2006 as a pioneer in the South Loop neighborhood. Each slice of corned beef is laced with lean and fat. An unofficial rule: You have to get the matzo ball soup, too. Every glorious orb comes topped with a perfect carrot cube.

$19.99. 1112 S. Wabash Ave., 312-212-1112, elevencitydiner.com

Chef and owner Derek Rylon brought his brunch game when he took over the restaurant, founded in 1938, five years ago in Lincoln Park. He kept the historic deli classics, including the beloved corned beef sandwich. Just remember to get your fancy pancakes, French toast and waffles early, since Frances’ closes at 3 p.m.

$14. 2552 N. Clark St., 773-248-4580, brunchonclark.com

Veteran restaurateur Pauly Stern followed his deli dreams and opened last August honoring his father Fritz in Oak Park. You’ll find a fantastically flavorful corned beef Reuben on rye, and even a corned tofu Reuben, which is a little bland, but actually makes a nicely balanced sandwich if you love tofu too.

$15. 113 N. Oak Park Ave., Oak Park; 708-613-4760; fritzisdeli.com

Owner Adnan Zadd just opened the small strip mall grocery store two months ago southwest of the city. They make their own corned beef for the deli counter that is indeed zabiha halal. There’s a pound of feathery sliced meat on soft bread of your choice, with Swiss cheese and mustard. Prepare to unhinge your jaw for that first incredible bite. Do note there’s no seating inside, but you can eat outside in the free parking lot up front.

$18. 5601 W. 79th St., Burbank; 708-658-6938

Elizabeth Norris opened the deli influenced cafe with her business partners in the Printers Row neighborhood in 2017. Look for housemade corned beef on the Reuben, and remember to check the restaurant’s Instagram for creative doughnut specials, and stop by the bar in the historic space that was once Blackie’s.

$16. 755 S. Clark St., 312-224-1772, halfsourchicago.com

Jeff Bendix decided to help save deli culture by opening a Jewish-style deli inside his pharmacy in Andersonville. Not only has it worked out for over 20 years, but the radiant sandwiches set a high bar. The deli finally added a website, and you can even order online.

$14.95. 5501 N. Clark St., 773-728-0600, jbsdeli.com

Kaufman’s is the only place around town where you can clearly order your choice of meat fattiness (regular, deckle, lean and super trim). The lowest-priced happens to be the fattiest — and the most flavorful. Owner Bette Dworkin seems to always be there, overseeing every silky slice in the store.

$16.50. 4905 W. Dempster St., Skokie; 847-677-6190; kaufmansdeli.com

Sisters Avery and Lyndsey Kincaid took over the deli named for the grandmother of the original owner two years ago. Look for their shop right across the street from Lem’s Bar-B-Q, and down the block from Brown Sugar Bakery, two other Black-women-owned businesses, legendary in Chatham. The 312 is their terrific take on a Reuben, pressed panini-style with butter on marble rye with corned beef, Swiss, sauerkraut and Mabe’s sauce.

$10.75. 312 E. 75th St., 773-891-1798, mabesss.com

The best deli experience in town — especially if Gino Gambarota is making your mile high sandwich with enough corned beef to share among good friends and family. He’ll celebrate his 40th year behind the counter on May 5 this year in the South Loop. Fourth-generation owner and operator Dan Raskin now runs the family business founded in 1942, creating a recent cross cultural knish collaboration.

$20.95. 1141 S. Jefferson St., 312-939-2855, mannysdeli.com

The huge restaurant, deli and bakery, opened by Lester Schlan and named for his sons, is the epicenter of Jewish life in the North Shore suburbs. Get the tender corned beef in sandwiches piled so high, the fragrant house baked rye can barely contain it. Plus look out for Reuben egg rolls, an occasional special.

$13.99. 461 Waukegan Road, Northbrook, 847-272-9490, maxandbennys.com

This warm bear hug of a sandwich remains as reliable as the diner counter shop. It’s been open since 1933, and a lot has changed in the neighborhood near the United Center, where new buildings dwarf the little store. Inside, the phone never seems to stop ringing, while the short order cooks hustle, and they always remember your pickle.

$14.95. 16 S. Western Ave., 312-226-5094, moons.homestead.com

Morry Orman opened his Jewish-style deli in 1960. Now it’s a community hub in the Hyde Park neighborhood. A lot of skill and history goes into slicing the meat to precise pink ribbons in this unassuming storefront setting.

$11.29. 5500 S. Cornell Ave., 773-363-3800, morrysdeli.com

This suburban bagel shop is still open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. If you time your visit right, you might get a bagel still hot from the oven. The meat may be warmed in the microwave, but after your first bite through the crackly, chewy crust, all will be forgiven.

$8.49. 4714 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood; 847-677-9388; newyorkbagelandbialy.net

You’ll have to wait until the Monday after Passover, April 17 this year, to get an XL (extra lean) corned beef sandwich at the market open since 1957 in Rogers Park. It’s a test of patience, as is the slow sandwich making process itself, but rewarded with carefully sliced, deeply spiced meat. Do note there’s no seating inside, but you can eat outside in the free parking lot next door.

$6.99. 7200 N. Clark St., 773-761-4141

The Jewish-style deli named for golden chicken fat is not afraid to keep things fatty. It’s a simple, solid sandwich served with pickles and a side of endearingly irregular housemade bagel chips. The shop moved from Naperville to Lisle, the sole location now serving their regular half stuffed, over stuffed or 15th anniversary edition holdover 15 ounce stuffed corned beef sandwiches.

$13.79. 3011 Ogden Ave., Lisle; 630-245-7595; schmaltzdeli.com

The Bagel has bounced around since it first opened in 1950 in the city, then the suburbs, and back again to where it stands in Lakeview. Nothing seems to have changed with the classic corned beef on rye, or the wonderfully sassy staff, no matter where or when you visit.

$15.75. 3107 N. Broadway, 773-477-0300, bagelrestaurant.com

The trademarked Radical Reuben sandwich (piled high with corned beef style seitan, grilled onions, peppers, sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and dairy or vegan cheese) has become an icon beyond Chicago for good reason. The vegetarian (or vegan sandwich) is so good on its own, plus comes with lots of side options including fresh cut fries or fantastic thin and crispy housemade yucca chips. It’s available at the original diner in Lakeview East, and the sister shop in Logan Square.

$16. 3411 N. Halsted St., 773-935-6696; 2333 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-252-3211; veggiediner.com

The actual factory has been around since 1948, and owner Ted Lagios still uses the same recipe for the corned beef, also sold wholesale. The sandwich shop, opened in the West Loop in 2015, has become such a fan favorite for piled high meat on rye that a new location in Stickney just opened. Three more shops are planned to open by mid year in Buffalo Grove, Woodstock and Carol Stream.

$13. 1016 W. Lake St.; 6817 Pershing Road, Stickney; 312-666-2536; cornedbeeffactorychicago.com

Chef and owner Debbie Sharpe makes beautiful Reubens, layered with classic corned beef or turkey pastrami. A big part of her business was catering to rock stars. No wonder the carefully crafted sandwiches seem made with a superstar touch.

$12.95. 1649 N. Damen Ave., 773-342-3200; multiple locations; goddessandgrocer.com

When you walk through the Jewish-style deli, open for over 60 years in Oak Park, the wood-paneled dining room sets the stage for your elemental sandwich. Nothing more, nothing less, nothing fancy, but all you need. Plus, it pairs great with the matzo ball soup. Igor Russo and Ryan Rosenthal were loyal customers who took over as the third set of owners in 2004.

$14. 6935 W. North Ave., Oak Park, 708-383-2548, theonionroll.com

Founded in 1893 by Austrian-Hungarian Jewish immigrants Emil Reichel and Sam Ladany, this is the maker of the definitive Chicago-style hot dog and the patented official corned beef of St. Patrick’s Day. The factory and shop moved south to the Bridgeport neighborhood, but it’s all the same. You could buy ingredients to make sandwiches yourself, but at least once, get one from the experts.

$13.99. 3847 S. Morgan St., 773-435-2298, viennabeef.com

An old corner store was transformed years ago to a cafe space in Logan Square, where Wyler Road opened in 2015. Their Reuben is just one of their stunning creative sandwiches. You can get it with thick yet tender slices of corned beef or make it vegetarian with seitan. I highly recommend their crunchy housemade potato chips, but you’ll have to choose from original, salt and vinegar or spicy dusted flavors.

$14. 3581 W. Belden Ave., 773-661-0675, wylerroad.com

lchu@chicagotribune.com

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