Osteria Mamma’s pomodori spumosi (cheese-stuffed tomatoes)

This simple “no-cook” side dish from Larchmont restaurant Osteria Mamma is a perfect way to serve up fresh tomatoes during their peak months. The recipe calls for Spanish olives as a topping, but lemon zest, grated bottarga or simply a crack of fresh ground pepper with olive oil will do nicely as well. If Caprino cheese is unavailable, you can substitute another soft goat cheese, such as a chevre; Meredith Farm’s marinated sheep-and-goat cheese works well too. For a more simple but equally delicious preparation, swap out both cheeses for fresh burrata. Pair this starter with a fruit-driven white wine such as Friulano Collio by Borgo Conventi.