The Ultimate Birthday Cake

L.A.’s favorite birthday cake, according to an L.A. Times survey, is a composite of these three components: yellow cake, berry filling and cream cheese frosting. This cake is flavorful with butter, vanilla and egg yolks. Its texture is light, with a sturdy crumb — a cake of substance that’s also an excellent match for an airy, soft frosting that’s also big on flavor. Not a buttercream, this is a combination of whipped cream, cream cheese and both crème fraîche (or sour cream) and mascarpone. (If while decorating, the frosting becomes too soft or warm, pop it into the refrigerator for a few minutes, then continue.) The tangy, creamy frosting is also delicious with the cake’s filling of berry jam and fresh berries.

Note: This makes a three-layer 8- or 9-inch cake. You’ll need parchment paper, cooking spray and baking pans (three 8- or 9-inch round pans) , a piping bag, offset spatula and a handheld mixer or a stand mixer.