Undocumented workers power L.A.’s restaurants. Will the industry protect them?

As restaurants navigate what they can do in times of crisis, part of the frustration stems from reports of illegal tactics employed by ICE. Many videos on social media show agents snatching vendors and workers without presenting a warrant, or detaining and arresting American citizens.

“I think that’s the scariest part that everyone is grappling with,” said Celia. “We can literally be following our side of action to the letter of the law, and you can basically violate our constitutional rights, and there’s no accountability for that.”

Restaurants have also had to navigate the stress of not knowing “who is who,” said Hernandez, as videos on social media have depicted off-duty ICE agents out of uniform and dining at L.A. restaurants.

On June 12, agents dined at the Silver Lake location of local smashburger chain the Win-Dow. The Win-Dow team members confirmed this interaction, and one employee who declined to give his name called the resulting dynamic — ICE agents eating at local restaurants where kitchen staff is primarily Latino and living in fear — “demeaning.”

“It kind of makes you feel like, man, what are you truly doing, you know?” the employee said. “Like, you’re coming to do raids, but you’re gonna come and eat the food we prepare for you. We give you this hospitality, but you come in here and try to be hostile in our city.”

News of ICE agents dining at the Win-Dow spread on social media, with Instagram users leaving comments criticizing the restaurant for not turning the agents away. The Win-Dow has so far not addressed any of the comments or posted a statement on social media, but employees told The Times they achieved the best-case scenario given the risks.

“What would you do?” said Paul Hibler, founder of American Gonzo Food Corp., which owns the Win-Dow in addition to local chains Pitfire Pizza, Superba and American Beauty. “Do you want to refuse service to somebody that would draw attention to you?”

“This is where we are right now in America,” he added. “We’re trying to figure out what we’re supposed to do.”

Out of the confusion, defiant solutions have emerged. Now, when the Win-Dow employees exit the kitchen to the Sunset Triangle Plaza, they immediately swivel around and lock the door tight. Managers in the area have started a group chat to keep each other informed about ICE movements, according to several working on Sunset Boulevard.

And when Lasita did reopen — on June 17, the day after the workshop — it was with new enforcements:

“STOP, This is a Private Space for Employees Only, No Public Entry,” read signs posted in the back of house. Hosts and servers were given prompts to read in case ICE attempted to raid the restaurant. And the owners are working on an official emergency protocol to give to staff, whom Chase said feel more confident now that there is an open dialogue about safety protocol.

“A lot of people open their businesses because it was a dream of theirs to have these spaces, but there is a sense of responsibility that we owe our team,” Hernandez said. “Our industry doesn’t exist without immigrants, and it is morally wrong to not be there for those that have created the opportunities that we are able to realize at this point.”

“They’ve had our backs,” she added. “It’s time to have theirs.”